Tag Archives: Props

Strife: Angelus’s Minerva Cosplay

22 Mar , 2014,
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We’ve been working on new costumes non-stop this year, and two of our most fun and challenging ones are from American developer S2 Games latest 2nd-gen MOBA title, Strife.

The game recently entered Closed Beta, and boasts an array of impressive character designs reflective of it’s meta world – five different planes with varying thematics ranging from the medieval to the technologically advanced.

We were invited to help S2 Games bring some of these characters to life when we won the cosplay competition at Campus Game Fest last year, and these costumes will be making an appearance at PAX East in Boston this April where we’ll be guest-judging the cosplay competition and also participating in a variety of promotional events and activities.

Here’s a quick look at what we’ve done for one of the game’s iconic characters – a psychic assassin from the plane of Vorbis named Minerva.

Minerva design by S2 Games.

Minerva design by S2 Games.

The design for the character meant that we had to get creative with not just body paint, but also a different variety of materials and fabrics. We’d also have to utilize LEDs to get the effects with her weapon prop just right.

Because we’re most experienced with foam, we decided to tackle the armor pieces and Minerva’s tail first.


The tail was segmented out of individually cut foam triangles.

We planned for the tail to be reticulated, so it can move freely and naturally while Angelus moved. The effect was accomplished by having each individual segment slide into each other, and securing with velcro.


Bracers, Pauldrons, and other assorted portions of the armor. We’ve also painted the tail segments too!

Minerva doesn’t don as much armor as we are normally accustomed to, but that’s also a good thing. It means we can create a more mobile and flexible costume, so Angelus can push her poses.


A closer look at the headdress.

Like Kerrigan’s wig, Minerva’s hair is a mass of organic tentacles. We decided that we’d build a headdress out of foam tubes layered over one another, joined to a knit mesh that’s normally used for sewing wig wefts.

As for Minerva’s body suit and jacket, they were built as separate pieces. The jacket was crafted from pleather, with additional panels to create the cape-like structure behind her.


We thought the inspiration for Minerva was a little bit like a manta ray…


With additional colored panels added.

Then there was Minerva’s polearm. It was made to be detachable so we could ship it over to PAX in a supply case, and LEDs were inserted to give it a cyan glow.


The base was also crafted from foam to keep it lightweight. XD

Then there’s also the body paint, which we think is probably the hardest part. ^^;;

Getting a finish that doesn’t run in a convention (which requires a lot of dabbing and powdering down) is hard work. The make-up alone takes about an hour! 😮


Using an airbrush to apply body paint is tricky, but it creates a more even tone compared to hand brushing.


Here’s a close-up. Getting the right shade also requires blending of multiple different pigments. 😮

And here’s the completed ensemble from our studio preview.

Angelus cosplaying as Minerva in our studio preview.

Angelus’s Minerva cosplay.

Don’t forget to leave a comment so we know what you think of Angelus’s costume.

We’ll also be blogging about our work on Crimson’s MidKnight cosplay, an armored warrior who made his debut in the Strife comic book next week!

More production images of this costume and our other cosplays can be found at: www.facebook.com/neotokyoproject

To register for the S2 Games Open Cosplay Contest, click on the link here

1000 Steampunk Creations

22 Jul , 2011,
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If you’re as crazy about steampunk as I am, then you’ll probably fall instantly in love with 1000 Steampunk Creations, showcasing the best in steampunk from around the world and the web.

I was sourcing for inspiration for my latest costume at Planerds – a re-imagining of my Victorian vampire garb, when I chanced upon this title and flipping through the pages just totally blew me away.

It’s hard to describe what’s in this book (since it’s full of pictures) save that it aggregates everything from steampunk home appliances (like that crazy re-skinned Mac computer) to fashion and accessories. What’s more, it covers all aspects of steampunk so there’s plenty to ogle at. Vintage aeronaut, adventuring gear, chic Victorian couture and dystopic togs – it’s all in there.

Just take a look at these awesome examples:

It’s really cool isn’t it? XD

Working With Styrofoam

10 Jun , 2011,
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Styrofoam is an effective material for crafting lots of props and armor pieces. I use styrofoam balls almost exclusively as the base of my shoulderpads, and it’s not entirely unheard of for cosplayers to shave styrofoam to the correct shape and size for weapons ornaments and frills, or to use expanding foam to craft the same.

While styrofoam’s fairly easy to cut and shape (all you need is a heated blade and a firm hand), applying a coat of paint to the styrofoam, or even sticking it to another piece with glue can be a real hassle. The composition of styrofoam precludes the use of conventional methods, and here’s a little science lesson why.

Styrofoam is composed of polystyrene, which is easily soluble in most chemical solvents. The propellants in spray paint cans, as well as the compounds of most liquid based paints (such as glass paint) will eat through styrofoam faster than you can say “cosplayer”. Same goes for most conventional glue products, which contain chemical solvents that prevent the glue from drying up, but has a rather nasty side effect on styrofoam.

Tough luck, you might think, but here are some  methods I’ve used, and items that have proven to be great workarounds.

1. Apply Liquid Varnish

Varnish, for the win.

You can prevent paint from eating into your styrofoam prop by covering it with several layers of liquid varnish. Personally, I prefer Amsterdam Matt Varnish, which goes for about $10 at Art Friend and most major craft stores. Brush on three coats of liquid varnish – one coat at a time, and allowing intervals for the varnish to dry.

If you’ve done this correctly, your prop should be protected by a thin, yet durable sheen that can be spray painted or glued on without hassle.

2. Use Acrylic Paint

Daler-Rowney's Cryla label is ideal for painting cosplay props.

The best way to get around using aerosol paints is to stick with good, old fashioned acrylic. I normally use Daler-Rowney’s Cryla label, which has a great finish, some really neat color combinations, and most importantly, is fairly affordable. What’s more, Cryla paints are great to use with the Dry Brush method of painting, which leaves a polished, aged look on your armor and weapon pieces.

Apply acrylic over a single coat of varnish, then varnish over when dry for best results.

3. Shellac it up

If you can get your hands on shellac (it’s available in most hardware stores), it functions the same way as liquid varnish, except you only really need a single coat to inure your styrofoam prop against the dangers of acetone and other solvents. You can also do the same with clear nail polish (couple dollars in SaSa and Daiso).

Now on to glue selection.

4. Glue as you know it

There’s only really two types of glue you can use reasonably well with styrofoam. One’s the UHU Por glue, which is foam friendly. I can’t count the number of times it’s actually saved my Warlock shoulderpads, replete with foam spikes and skulls, from falling to pieces. You can get a stick at Art Friend (about $5) or any reliable craft store.


UHU Por, and a very well used stick at that. XD

PVA - The alternative.

The other label is PVA Craft Glue, which is purchaseable from Spotlight for $7. Personally, I prefer UHU Por, but PVA tends to dry faster.

And there you have it.

Until next time, cosplay friends. Cheerio!

More Spanking Shoulderpads!

9 Jun , 2011,
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In my previous “Mantle of the Corruptor” tutorial, I described a method of crafting armored shoulderpads out of a foam ball, polystyrene sheets, and a bit of imagination. This time, I’ll focus on how to create shoulderpads from a springier material – foam.

I first started messing around with foam mats after seeing some of the fan creations from Blizzcon, as well as the amazing work of award winning Korean and Thai cosplayers. The biggest draw about foam is that it’s light, relatively easy to shape, and better yet, relatively fuss free to pack and store compared to polystyrene and plastic. It’s entirely the reason why I chose to use this material for my Netherblade Shoulderpads.

While this project focuses primarily on crafting some decent looking rogue gear, the method may be applied to any foam armor project.

This tutorial will take approximately 90 minutes to complete.

You will need the following items:

1. A sheet of EVA foam mat. You can purchase EVA foam mat from Mash Shop (directions here) for approximately $10.

2. A sheet of large sheet of tracing paper.

3. A marker.

4. Heavy grade scissors, contact cement and/or craft glue.

5. Acrylic paint, of the preferred color.

Step 1: Come up with the design of your shoulderpads. Draw out the shape of the component pieces on tracing paper with a marker, and then cut it out.

Here's an example of a paper patterns you'll have to cut. XD

Step 2: Affix your paper pattern onto the sheet of EVA foam, and using your scissors, cut carefully according to the shape on the paper pattern. Cut out all the pieces one at a time.

And this is how you do it! XD

Step 3: We’ll focus on the base first. What we want to do is to give our shoulderpads a 3D feel, so we’re going to crimp the ‘fish-tail’ together. Using contact cement or heavy duty craft glue, join the two halves carefully so you end up with a slightly bell shaped taper.

This is how the base should look like. XD

Bend the fish-tail ends towards each other...

And glue liberally. Hold them together till the glue sets.

Step 4: Repeating steps 2 and 3, create the trim and adornments next.

Cut out and shape the other foam pieces. This one's the trim. Work the ends the same way as the base.

Step 5: Paint both the base and the trim pieces with acrylic paint. Use a dry brush for a metallic finish, and texture for a scratched, battle-worn look. Mix in a hint of black for a ‘dirty’ feel.

Here's how the entire thing looks like without paint, with all the itty bitty pieces stuck on.

The trim with metallic silver paintwork. XD

And the frills, too.

Step 6:

Join the base and the trim together using contact cement. Use contact cement to layer on additional craft foam pieces where necessary to achieve the design you want.

Almost finished product! XD

Step 7:

Using the half foam ball method described in my previous tutorial, secure it in place as the base for your shoulderpads. Add velcro tape, and you’re done!

And yes, it's fitted with the same half foam ball thingie as my Warlock shoulders. XD

And there you have it. Simple foam shoulderpads, Netherblade style!

Frostmourne hungers!

1 May , 2011,
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Frostmourne! How cool is that? XD

Nothing screams World of Warcraft like the legendary Frostmourne, the enchanted runeblade of Lich King Arthas Menethil, and guess what? I just got my paws on a life sized, latex replica from Windlass Studios in the mail yesterday!

Crafted from heavy duty latex foam with a solid core, the blade’s a stunt ready and convention ready take on the original metal version that allows for a decent boffing, with none of the potential for blood shed.

This tasty piece of loot’s going right into my Warcraft cosplay trove, so expect to see me wielding this awesome legendary tier weapon at Cosfest, and beyond!

Crimson's 2011 Raiding Schedule

12 Apr , 2011,
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2011 sure has a ton of cosplay events – hell, it’s almost as if everyone’s upped and jumped onto the cosplay bandwagon all of a sudden.

First, there was the Singapore Comifest (which is coming back again in June, even), then there’s the Big Three (SOY, Cosfest and EOY), the gaming cons (License2Play and STGCC), and a smattering of smaller cons and gigs in between.

And with so many events on the cards, that means this warlock’s gonna be helluva busy, getting his getup together for June and beyond.

What does this mean? Well, it means that I’ve got to start working out which events I’m targeting, and the kinda costumes I’ll be packing. So here’s the list, if you folks ever see me on the show floor, and wanna say hi. XD

1. License 2 Play – Warlock T5 (Day 1 & 2), Sith Inquisitor (Day 3)

2. Cosfest – Rogue T4 (Day 1 & 2)

3. STGCC – Rogue T4 (Day 1), Steampunk Victorian (Day 2)

4. EOY – Steampunk Victorian (Day 1), Rogue T4 (Day 2)

I’ll probably be doing Sith Inquisitor (from Star Wars, Expanded Universe) for the smaller events, or just geek chic casual.

One thing’s for sure though. I’ll be hanging up my staff and warlock robes for a bit after License 2 Play. It’s been a good one year, and I think it’s time I started playing my rogue alt for a little bit. XD

How about you folks? What are your cosplay plans this year? I’ve love to find out!


Spanking Shoulders! Part The Second

7 Apr , 2011,
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warlock cosplay, tier 5 warlock cosplay, warlock cosplay tutorial, warlock cosplay guide, world of warcraft warlock cosplay, tier 5 cosplay, corruptor's raiment

The Warlock look is in this season. Just ask my stylist. XD

If you’ve been following my quickie guide to crafting armored shoulder pieces, then you should be almost all set to put the finishing touches to your very own Corruptor’s Mantle.

In this second part, I’ll show you how to tack on the proverbial bells and whistles (and skulls, of course), so you’ll look like a regular warlock when you don this awesome get-up.

This tutorial will take approximately 60 minutes to complete.

Waco glass paint and some acrylic texture are gonna be your friends this project.

First off, you will need the following items:

1. Two foam coits measuring approximately 5-inches (11 cm) across.

Also called foam donuts, these are often sold in halves (or can be sliced into halves). $3 from Art Friend.

2. A Plastic/Polystyrene Sheet of approx 0.1 cm thickness  – about $5 from Art Friend.

3. Four circular mirrors of approx 3-inches diameter  – about $2 each from Art Friend.

4. Eight foam cones. These are typically 10-inches to 15-inches long  – $5 from Art Friend.

5. Two leather belts/strips. Cheap leather belts can be purchased from Daiso  – $2 each from Daiso.

6. Three styrofoam skulls. The same skulls we used in the Fantasy Wand Tutorial – $3 to $5, from Toys ‘R’ Us or a party goods store.

7. Several metal spokes/garden skewers to reinforce the foam cones. They’ll also be used to affix the skulls to the cones. – $2 for a packet from Daiso.

8. A box of long screws. $2 for a box from Daiso.

You’ll also need brushes and paints (acrylic paint, texture, and glass paint), drawing tools, a decent pen knife, a small screwdriver, a hand drill, some craft glue, and heavy duty 3M craft tape.

Step 1:

Now that we’ve got a nice, painted base, we’ll need to cut up the bits and bobs that are going on our shoulders.

First, use the foam coit as a reference to trace out several stars on the styrene sheet. Cut out the star shapes, and join them to the foam coits with craft glue.

Get some color on when the glue’s all dried up.

This is how it should look like.

Don't forget to paint 'em!

Step 2:

Cut the foam cones into the shape of those nasty, nasty spikes on the Corruptor’s shoulders. Vary their lengths, so you’ve got two long ones, and two short ones.

Yep, that's about right. And remember to paint 'em too!

Chop off the tips of two of the longer cones, and one of the shorter cones, approximately 1-inch (2.2 cm) from the top. Don’t throw the tips away, because they’re gonna be useful later.

Step 3:

Paint the mirrors with glass paint (red, in this case).

Using double sided tape and craft glue, affix the mirrors in the center of the foam coits.

On goes the tape and glue dabs...

... and the mirrors next.

Step 4:

Now we’ll work on the trim for the shoulders, and the mount for the coit-star-mirror ornaments.

Cut the leather belts to the correct lengths, then attach them to the edges of the shoulder armor pieces using heavy duty 3M tape, and reinforcing with craft glue where necessary.

Next, apply 3M tape to the front and rear of your shoulders, near the edge of the base.

The tape has it. It's really awesome for securing the belts (which serve as the leather trim), and the adornments in place.

Press it down, so it stays in place. XD

Step 5:

Let’s take a look at the spikes next. The spikes can be reinforced by thrusting a single metal spoke through it, dead center.

To attach the spikes to the shoulder armor base, use a hand drill to bore a hole through the plastic sheet, then use a screw (with screw threads) to secure them in place.

Here's how to hit the proverbial nail on the head...

...and here's a close up. XD

Step 6:

Paint your skulls so they look nice and bloody, then connect them to the shaved cones by skewering them with the metal spokes, and sticking them in place.

Cap off the skulls with the bit of styrofoam you shaved off in Step 2, using craft glue to stick them on.

Hi, I'm a skull on a spike! XD

Check the screws, tightening them where necessary (and screwing them into the styrofoam) to make sure your spikes stay in place.

Repeat for the other shoulder piece, until you have both pieces ready like so.

And we're almost done!

Touch up with paint where necessary, and voila~!

Spanking Warlock shoulders. How cool is that? XD

Spanking Shoulders! Part The First

5 Apr , 2011,
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warlock cosplay, tier 5 warlock cosplay, warlock cosplay tutorial, warlock cosplay guide, world of warcraft warlock cosplay, tier 5 cosplay, corruptor's raiment, world of warcraft warlock cosplay, corruptor's raiment warlock cosplay,

Gotta love those Warlock shoulders. I know I do. XD

Since I started parading around in my Corruptor’s Raiment, I’ve received quite a few emails asking how I managed to fix up my shoulders. It’s arguably the trickiest part of the entire getup, but hey, making yourself some spanking armored shoulders ain’t all that hard. I’ve thrown together this little guide that shows you how. In this first part, I’m gonna reveal a really nifty secret – what to use as a base for your armored shoulders, and how to shape it. In the second part, which I’ll post tomorrow, I’ll talk about how to assemble those Tier 5 shoulders proper.

This tutorial will take approximately 30 minutes to complete.

First off, you will need the following items:

Can't believe this is really all you need. Well, you'll need some nuts, bolts and elbow grease too. XD

1. One half of a hollow foam ball. The diameter of this foam ball should be about the same width as your shoulder, if you measure across. In my case, I chose one with an internal diameter of approx. 6 inches (external diameter approx. 20 cm) – $3 from Art Friend.

2. A Plastic/Polystyrene Sheet of approx 0.1 cm thickness  – about $5 from Art Friend.

3. Several pairs of nuts and 1-inch long bolts with screw threads – $2 from Daiso. In addition to the above items, you’ll also need a pair of scissors, a large pen knife, and a hand drill.

Step 1: Using the pen knife, cut the foam ball into halves.

Cut it length-wise, like so. Watch for jagged edges!

Step 2: Buff the edges of the foam half so it’s smooth.

And when you're done, it should look something like this. XD

Step 3: Cut the plastic/polystyrene sheet to shape. Using a hand drill, pierce two holes through the sheet near the edges where the sheet should be bolted to the styrofoam half.

Peel off the plastic protection, trace on your preferred shape, and get ready to do some cutting and drilling!

Step 4: Bend the styrene sheet, and stick the bolts in place. Once that’s done, tighten the nuts for a firm hold. Don’t forget to slap on a layer of paint or three in preparation for tomorrow!

Bend it like Beckham. Well, you get the idea.

And here's how it looks like when bolted the plastic sheet onto the foam half. From the front...

... and from the rear. XD

If you follow these basic techniques, you can create almost any shoulder armor piece imaginable. The foam ball half is an ideal base for any shoulder piece, and the plastic sheet can be cut into just about any shape and design.

They're made the same way. Really.

Joey’s (Lord_Angelus) Mage shoulders, for example, were crafted in a similar way, using a smaller plastic piece. XD To anchor the shoulder piece to your clothing, all you need to do is to affix a velcro strip lengthwise, and have the other velcro piece ride on your shoulders. It makes for a really snug and secure fit. XD And now that we’ve got the base out of the way, let’s get it painted and primed, and we’ll start working on the embellishments in a day or two! Until then, cheerio!

Crimson's Fantasy Wand Tutorial

22 Feb , 2011,
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Everything you need to make yourself a fantasy style wand. And who said you needed the Craft Wand feat, huh?

Fantasy fans are no strangers to wands.

Wands are to wizards what guns are to gunslingers, and any wizard worth his salt is bound to be packing heat.

Before wands were popularized in J.K Rowling’s Harry Potter,  they were already all the rage in Dungeons & Dragons.

Wands could be crafted from all kinds of exotic and unusual materials, such as amber, cobalt, and even human bone.

Computer games, too, added an increasing complex graphical dimension to wand designs – as any player of the latest MMORPGs, especially World of Warcraft can attest.

Today, I will cover the basics of creating a simple fantasy wand – one with the finished look of a piece of charred bone, topped with a skull – that’s ideal for a sinister necromancer, villainous wizard, or a World of Warcraft warlock.

Overall, this tutorial will take approximately 45 minutes to an hour to complete.

First off, you will need the following items:

1. A Bamboo Hanging Vase, which we will scavenge for the ‘bones’. – $2 from Daiso.

2. Styrofoam Skull – $3 to $5, from Toys ‘R’ Us or a party goods store.

3. Embellishments – In this case I’m using black feathers ($2 for a packet, from a craft shop), spool silver wire ($2 from Daiso) and black cord ($2 from Daiso).

4. Paint – Acrylic, black and silver (price varies) and Red Glass Paint (price varies). You can pick up paint from Art Friend or any other art supply shop.

In addition to the above items, you’ll also need a pair of scissors and craft glue.

Step 1:

The whole purpose of getting a Bamboo Hanging Vase - scavenging the parts!

Here's what you want. XD

Using a pair of scissors, cut open the rattan cords keeping the Bamboo Hanging Vase together. Dismantle it carefully, removing the bone-like wooden sticks. Select one of them (the more bone-y looking one). It’s going to become the base of your wand.

Step 2:

Poke a hole in the base of the styrofoam skull using your scissors.

Be gentle!

Once you have made a small groove, insert the bone-y wooden stick into the hole. Twist it in so the fit is nice and snug.

Easy does it. XD

Step 3:

Once that’s done, it’s time to start getting our fingers dirty. Remove the stick, and start painting it liberally with acrylic and a dry brush. Use a layer of black first, to create a base coat. Layer on silver in dabs to create a metallic finish.

Several coats should make it look nice and metallic.

Step 4:

Once that’s done, we’ll leave it to dry while we work on the skull.

My, what big eyes you have!

Using a fine brush, paint the eye sockets of the skull with red glass paint. Dab it on lightly, and spread it out to make the eye sockets look bloody. You can also paint on magical symbols and runes if you like.

Step 5:

Decorate your wand. In this case, I’m using silver wire and black feathers, and I’ve streaked a bit of silver acrylic paint onto the feathers to give them a bit of contrast. You can embellish your wand with anything you want, really, and even paint on magical runes and symbols on the stick part. XD

Binding the feathers down with silver wire. XD

Step 6:

Finally, apply craft glue to the tip of your wand, and again inside the hole in your styrofoam skull. Join both parts together.

And we're almost done!

Leave the whole project to dry, then add some accessories like spikes, horns and extra feathers to make it look awesome! XD

I'mma take you down… to Chinatown

17 Feb , 2011,
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South Bridge Road, which we'll visit in a bit. XD

In my previous entry, I talked a bit about how People’s Park’s the place to be if you’re interested in getting cloth at a steal.

Today we’re gonna go for Round 2, sneaking a peek at some of the shops on the third floor of People’s Park, and then we’re gonna gonna venture a little further afield to South Bridge Road, as we hunt for some bling to go with our thang.

1. Getting there

Here’s a quick recap for those who need directions to textile heaven.

People’s Park is situated at Blk 32, New Market Road, Singapore 050032, and jigging down’s as easy as hopping the MRT and popping out Exit C.

You can also take buses 54, 124, 145, 147, 166, 190, 851 and 961, alighting at Eu Tong Sen Street, or 51, 143, 174 and 186, alighting along Upper Cross Street.

2. Cloth and more

Yes, People’s Park doesn’t just sell cloth.

The third floor is chock full of shops selling the latest in street fashion, accessories, and add ons that can make your cosplay costume come alive.

It’s also home to several small, homegrown boutiques, if you’re into alternative clothing labels.

That's a lot of mannequins! XD

a. Maple House (#03-1022)

One of the first shops you might want to visit on the third floor is Maple House, situated near the balcony overlooking the square.

It’s a shop specializing in cabaret costumes and frills, and you’ll find it easily enough. Just look for the row of colorfully dressed mannequins decked out in bling.

In addition to sequined dresses and exotic dancewear, Maple also stocks masquerade masks, hats, studded pleather and lace gloves, stockings, and a fair bit of costume jewelry ideal for accentuating your costume.

b. Peng Hin (S) Corporation (#03-1048)

Another shop specializing in accessories, Peng Hin stocks a decent sized collection of brooches and hair ornaments, as well as a variety of wigs in different shapes and cuts imported from Hong Kong and Korea.

Peng Hin - Wigs, wigs and more wigs.

You’ll find wigs suited for medieval or Victorian themed characters, replete with coifs and curls, as well as those of a more theatrical nature.

While you won’t find wigs in funky cosplay shades, the ones they do carry – in browns and blacks and blondes, aren’t half bad.

c. Sin Hwa Hung (#03-1104)

If there’s one thing Sin Hwa Hung has plenty of, it’s buttons.

This shop, with it’s loud, red signboard, stocks tons of the stuff – from buttons adorned with heraldric crests and curiously shaped whorls, to Chinese knots and exotic pieces studded with rhinestones.

If you’re looking for buttons to fit that military frock coat, or to cinch up that snap chain across your cloak, then there’s a good chance Sin Hwa Hung has what you’re looking for.

They also stock belt buckles, as well as a selection of laces and ribbons, making it a one stop shop for accessorizing.

Sin Hwa Hung - Better known as the House of Flying Buttons.

d. Thye Guan Textile (#02-1006)

Before we hit the road, we’re gonna revisit the second floor and Thye Guan Textile.

I meant to write about Thye Guan in my previous entry, but it was closed for the Lunar New Year the last time round.

More’s the pity too. It’s the only shop selling fabric that’s perfect for medieval and Renaissance style costumes.

Visit Thye Guan if you’re hunting for fabric that fits renaissance style dresses, arcane wizard’s robes, and the skirts of buxom tavern wenches.

If you’re going for something a little more chic, their satins are pretty nice too.

It also helps that prices at Thye Guan are reasonable.

3. And we’re blasting off again

We’re taking a hike along Eu Tong Sen Street, all the way to South Bridge Road, some ten minutes away.

Most buses that ply Eu Tong Sen Street will alight you about a block away, near Clarke Quay Central.

M.D. House. Don't know what M.D. stands for, but they sure got a ton of stuff! XD

You can also take the MRT, and alight at Clarke Quay station, before crossing the road and taking a really, really short walk.

South Bridge Road is home to several costume jewelry suppliers, and the two gems I’m gonna write about are probably the most well stocked of the lot.

a. M.D. House (54, South Bridge Road, Singapore 058685)

With it’s unobtrusive shop front, it’s hard to imagine that M.D. House sells costume jewelry of every stripe.

They carry an impressive variety of rings and pendants – both patterned and plain, necklaces, belts and buckles, all at wholesale prices.

Bring a friend. Hell, bring a few. You’re gonna need those extra eyes and hands just to sift through what they have, that’s for sure.

Lai Nguang - it's conveniently situated next to a famous BBQ restaurant too. XD

b. Lai Nguang Jewelry Pte Ltd (36, South Bridge Road, Singapore 058670)

In addition to rings, necklaces and pendants, Lai Nguang is also a wholesaler of materials for those interested in trying their hand at making cosplay jewelry.

Spools of wire, beads, precious stones, settings, clasps, hooks and all sorts of components are available at this store, stacked in neat, plastic drawers.

They’ve even got a membership program for regulars, so if you’re a dab hand at jewelcrafting, or if you don’t mind just giving it a go, be sure to check out Lai Nguang.

And that’s a wrap, folks. At least for Chinatown and it’s immediate environs. XD

But the quest for affordable, quality materials never ends, so we’re gonna keep roving and bargain hunting.

Until next month, cheerio!