Tag Archives: Tutorials

Print Transfers onto EVA

23 Oct , 2014,
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Update: Due to bandwidth issues, this tutorial has been replicated on Facebook.  You can access the complete tutorial here.

Recently, we discovered a simple method to transfer printed images onto EVA and we’re pretty excited since it makes replicating filigree and complex patterns so much easier. If you’d like to try your hand at it too, here’s a simple tutorial detailing the steps we took.

What you’ll need:

1. Some latex glue and white acrylic paint

2. EVA foam

3. Paper (110 gsm or better stock)

4. A printer (we used a laser printer)

5. Acrylic Gel Medium

6. Water and dish-washing sponge

7. Paper towels

Step 1:

Mix Latex glue and White acrylic paint together. Prime your EVA surface with a single layer this mixture. This is to prepare it for the transfer process.

Let it dry completely.

Step 2:

Create the pattern or graphic you’d like to transfer onto EVA in graphic software.

Don’t forget to flip the image horizontally, because you’re printing the mirror image of this file onto the foam later.

Print the file out on reasonably good quality paper. Also, make sure you’re using a toner based printer (laser printer) rather than an inkjet as ink might not transfer well.

Step 3:

Coat the primed surface of the EVA foam with Acrylic Gel Medium. Gel Medium is what you’ll use to create the transfer, and you can purchase it at most art supply stores (such as Art Friend and Straits Art Co.).

Let the gel set for a little while, and apply your print out to the gel covered foam. You are essentially ‘pasting’ the print out to the foam with the acrylic gel.

Be sure to align your printed image properly, because this is a one-time process. Peeling off the printed image will ruin the process and you’ll have to start over.

Once you’re done, leave the project to dry for a day or so.

Step 4:

Immerse the foam with the print transfer in water. Soak it until the paper begins to fray and dissolve (usually about 15 minutes) and gently rub it off.

This part of the process is the most time consuming, and requires both patience and a steady hand.

Step 5:

Give the surface of the foam a good rinse after you’ve peeled off all the paper to get rid of stubborn fibers.

Pat dry the surface with paper towels, and leave to air dry.

Finally, seal the surface with acrylic lacquer and you’re all set for further crafting and embellishments.

Crafting a Shield

28 Mar , 2014,
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With Diablo being one of our favorite series, we were really excited about trying our hands at building something related to the new Crusader class. So when Vaeflare, who also featured our Demon Hunters awhile back put up some incredible visuals by Hungarian digital painter István Dányi, we were sold.

István Dányi's crusader, which was featured on the Blizzard site, became the inspiration for our shield project.

István Dányi’s awesome crusader art, which was featured on the Blizzard site.

This amazing piece, titled ‘Crusader – Unbreakable Warrior’ and the shield that the righteous knight toted soon became the inspiration for Crimson’s Crusader shield, which he lugged to the Diablo III: Reaper of Souls launch on Tuesday.

What you’ll need:

1. A large sheet of PP board (also known as corrugated plastic board)

2. EVA foam rolls

3. Leather belts (for strapping)

4. Drawing implements e.g. markers and tracing paper.

5. Cutting tools (usually a box cutter and sharp nosed scissors) and contact glue


Step 1:

Make sure you’ve got a good idea for the shape and design of your shield. First, draw the base shape on a piece of tracing paper, followed by any possible adornments on the shield onto a separate piece. You will need these templates for later.

Replicate the base shape of the shield on a piece of PP board. Cut it out using a box cutter.

Make sure you’re cutting it along, rather than against the grain.

Locate the middle of the shield shape, and crease it in half down the middle. This ensure that your shield is capable of bending and conforming to shape later on.

Finally, cut slits into the PP board approximate to where you intend to mount the shield straps. Make sure you cut three pairs of slits!

The PP board base, after folding and with slits cut from the base form.

The PP board base, after folding and with slits cut from the base form.

Most cosplayers don’t often realize that you don’t just have a pair of straps affixing the shield to your forearm, but also an additional strap that functions as a handle, so you can hold onto your shield firmly and to keep it in place while fighting. It’s incredibly important, especially if you want your shield to be stage ready!

Step 2:

Now, it’s time to incorporate the straps into your shield. Thread the leather belts (Daiso belts are okay) through the slits.


Make sure the belts loop through the shield like so. The buckle of the belt should be on the lower of the two slits.

Make sure to give it enough allowance so the strap can fit snugly around your forearm. Be sure to leave enough space for any bracers or gauntlets that you might also be wearing with the prop.

Here's how it looks like on the side that's going to be the back of your shield.

Here’s how it looks like on the side that’s going to be the back of your shield.

Trim off any excess lengths from the belts after.

Step 3:

Cut out a large enough piece of foam to cover the front of the shield.

Apply about 1-inch (approx. 2 cm) of contact glue all along the edges of the PP board, and also on the foam cutout.

With the PP board held slightly bent along the middle crease to create an arch, start pasting the foam down. Once the glue is dried, the shield will retain a slightly curved shape.

The thickness of the EVA foam and it's inherent rate of curving will help your shield retain it's shape once it's properly glued on. How cool is that?

The thickness of the EVA foam and it’s inherent tensity will help your shield retain it’s shape once it’s properly glued on. How cool is that?

Cut out any adornments and filigree you may have intended to add to your shield design, and paste them on using contact glue. We also added paper fasteners to create ‘rivets.

We'll normally also duplicate the artwork onto the shield base, so we have handy guides for where to paste individual pieces.

We’ll normally also duplicate the artwork onto the shield base, so we have handy guides for where to paste individual pieces.

Start creating shapes out of foam and pasting them on. You can vary the thickness of the EVA foam you use to create differentiation and add variety to your design.


Step 4:

When all the elements of the shield are pasted down, it’s time to prime and paint!

Three coats of PVA should be sufficient.  If you'd like to find out more about priming armor and props, check out this tutorial.

Waiting for glue and paint to dry is always the most boring part. XD
If you’d like to find out more about priming armor and props, check out this tutorial.

We usually coat our props with three layers of PVA. If you expect your shield to see a lot of stage use, consider using five.

And done! A lot of prop-making’s really about the finish and the paintwork. ^^;;

Finally, give it a nice, shiny coat of paint and weathering, and you’re done!

What do you think of our shield tutorial? Be sure to leave us a comment here or on Facebook!

Quick and Easy Tattoo Sleeves

9 Mar , 2014,
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If you’ve got a hankering to cosplay a character with tats, but don’t want to go with body paint or more painfully, the real thing, we’ve got some news for you.

Angelus was working on some new costumes recently, and chanced upon a pretty quick and easy method for making some fairly credible tattoos out of, get this, old body stockings and permanent markers.

Executive Assistant Iris - Just one of our geeky part-time warrior's newer cosplay projects.

Executive Assistant Iris – Just one of our geeky part-time warrior’s newer cosplay projects.

So if you’re like her and have some tattooed characters planned for an upcoming con, or just want to sport some funky custom tattoos in general, here’s a method you can try:

What you’ll need:

1. Skin-colored stocking material or body stocking (purchasable online)

2. A printout of the artwork/tattoo you want to create

3. Permanent markers

4. A body form or mannequin

5. Hair dryer to accelerate drying of the ink


Step 1:

Make sure you have a clear printout of the tattoo you want to replicate for your cosplay. Affix it to your body form so it doesn’t shift or move from where it’s supposed to be.

In this case, we'll be using Shanoa's glyph as a reference. :3

In this case, we’ll be using the glyph on Shanoa’s back as a reference. :3

Step 2:

Stretch your stocking over the body form. Make sure the body form conforms to your relative body size. Be sure to pull it taut so there are no unruly bunches or creases.

Make sure you pull the body stocking taut.

Make sure you pull the body stocking taut.

Make sure you position the stocking over the image, because you’ll be tracing over the image next.

Here's how it looks like.

Here’s how it looks like when you’ve wrestled the body stocking into place.

Step 3:

Using the printout as a guide, draw out the tattoo onto the stocking with a permanent marker. We’ve discovered that both Copic markers and Zebra pens are great for this.

Color in all the areas carefully.

Color in all the areas carefully.

Go over the edges of the artwork first, and then color in the insides. Don’t worry about smears or excessive ink seepage, because the paper printout will absorb most of that.

And we're almost done...

And we’re almost done…

Step 4:

Once you’re done, you can either leave the freshly tattooed stocking to air dry, or speed up the drying process with a hair dryer.

Carefully remove the stocking from the body form, and it’s ready to wear!

How's that for a temporary tattoo? It photographs pretty well too!

How’s that for a temporary tattoo? It photographs pretty well too!

Don’t forget to let Angelus know if you think the tutorial is useful by leaving a comment!

An EVA foam Corset

10 Jun , 2013,
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The corset is an indispensable part of a female cosplayer’s wardrobe and it’s perfect for a variety of genres – be it fantasy, steampunk, swashbuckling on the high seas.

In this tutorial, Angelus shows you just how easy it is to craft a corset of your own, out of a single sheet of blue EVA foam.

Stuff you’ll need:

1. Blue EVA foam

2. A pair of sharp nosed scissors

3. Contact glue

4. Cling film or newspaper

5. Masking tape or packing tape

6. A marker

7. Craft foam

8. Soldering tool

Step 1:

We’ll create the base shape first. Wrap a dress form sized for your body and physique, or your own body with cling film (or newspaper).

We’re using an inflatable dress form in this one, but if you want a really snug fit, you’ll have to wrap yourself up instead. Be sure to ask a friend for help!

Next, go over it with a layer of masking tape or packing tape. Make sure the fit’s comfortably tight.

Here’s how it looks when you’re done with the wrapping!

Step 2:

Using the marker, draw out the base panels of your corset. You’ll want to trace around the bust, abdomen and waist areas.

Draw out the approximate shape with a marker.

Next, cut out the panels carefully, one at a time.

Carefully cut out each panel with a pair of sharp-nosed scissors.

You’ll end up with several pieces like these.

Step 3:

It’s time to cut out the foam pieces!

Using the base shapes you’ve created as a template, replicate the shapes onto EVA foam.

Trace out the patterns, and cut them out! ^_^

Your corset's almost ready to be assembled! ^_^

You’ll end up with 11 pieces like so. And this means your corset’s almost ready to be assembled! ^_^

Step 4:

Start joining the pieces together with contact glue.


Start with the side panels first. ^_^;;

Affix the side panels to the front piece next, and adjust to fit.

Affix the side panels to the front piece next, and adjust to fit.

Finally, attach the breast cups and you're done!

Finally, attach the breast cups.

Step 5:

To add eyelets holes for lacing up your corset, simply reinforce the back panels with craft foam. You can then use a soldering tool to create the eyelet holes.

Photo 10-6-13 1 56 36 PM

Just add craft foam, before punching your eyelets with a heated soldering tool.

You can use either ribbons, shoelaces, leather straps or anything you like to lace up your corset.

Photo 10-6-13 1 56 42 PM

Lace it up, and you’re done!

You can also use a zip at the back of your corset (just contact glue it to the sides of the foam) to hold it together instead of laces, if you prefer.

Step 6:

Now, add detailing, paint and decorate your corset. Be as creative as you want, and you can create a variety of elaborate shapes and designs to suit practically any genre.

This pattern is also suitable for making female chest armor, just like below.

With the right kind of design and treatment, your corset can become a bronze breastplate!

Happy crafting! ^_^

How to prime your armor

20 Apr , 2013,
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Blue EVA’s really great for making fantasy armor, but achieving the fantasy look and affecting the feel of  metal, scales or stone can be tricky, especially for novice crafters and first-time foam builders.

As we’ve discovered, one way to enhance the illusion is priming, which not only minimizes the pores on your EVA and evens out the surfaces for paint, but also, depending on what you use, creates some really good textures.

Crimson put together this simple tutorial demystifies the priming process. Hope it helps! ^_^


White glue dries smooth and clear. Here’s how three coats of white glue looks like.

What you’ll need:

1. PVA glue (Elmer’s Glue-All or white school glue)

2. A container

3. A soft brush (you can use your fingers too!)

Step 1:

Pour PVA glue into a container. And whatever you do, DON’T ever add water. Diluting PVA glue with water creates air bubbles, which may affect your finish. ^_^;;


PVA glue’s our all-purpose primer!

Step 2:

Using a soft bristle brush, apply PVA glue liberally to your armor.

Make sure you cover all exposed surfaces!

Make sure you cover all exposed surfaces!

Don’t be afraid to lay it on thick. Pay attention especially to gaps and furrows, and places where the edging and filigree are joined to the base shape.

Step 3:

Let the glue dryYou can accelerate the drying by placing your armor pieces near a fan or window.

You can repeat Step 2 and Step 3  as many times as you like. Each additional coat of white glue enhances the smoothness of your finish.

We typically use three coats on our armor pieces.


To create bone or hide armor, consider using contact glue (yellow shoe glue). Contact glue dries rough and can simulate fibers, which creates a more organic effect.

For stone or lava, you can mix acrylic paints into white glue, which results in a crackled finish when it dries fully.

When contact glue dries, it creates a rough, leathery finish. Apply multiple layers with surface run-off to create more organic textures!

When contact glue dries, it creates a rough, leathery finish. Apply multiple layers with surface run-off to create more organic textures!

Crafting Horns

6 Feb , 2013,
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We’ve had quite a few of you writing in to ask how we build horns and other such objects out of blue foam, so Angelus decided to prepare a short tutorial to help you guys out.

Building horns, just like the type Angelus has on her Alexstrasza costume is pretty easy, and takes only several minutes of quick work to do.

Alexstrasza's horns were made the same way. ^_^

Alexstrasza’s horns were made the same way. ^_^

Stuff you’ll need:

1. Some foam scraps

2. A pair of sharp nosed scissors

3. Contact glue


We always have foam scraps lying around, so here's us recycling, kinda. ^_^;;

We always have foam scraps lying around, so here’s us recycling, kinda. ^_^;;


Step 1:

Pick out some scraps of foam (or cut up a fresh sheet, if you like), and trim to size.

Here's one slice.

Here’s one slice.

You’ll want to create several slices, which are in the approximate shape of the horn you intend to create.

Now create several more. ^_^

Now create several more. ^_^

Step 2:

Paste the slices together with contact glue.

The more slices you have, the thicker the horn becomes.

The more slices you have, the thicker the horn becomes.

Next, using a pair of sharp nosed scissors, make cuts and incisions to create the horn structure.

Make small and large cuts  with the scissors, varying them out to create the shape you want.

Make small and large cuts with your scissors, varying them out to create the shape you want.

You'll eventually end up with something like this.

You’ll eventually end up with something like this.

Once you’ve got the desired horn shape, you can start priming, sanding and painting the foam horn, just as you would a piece of armor. You could even wrap it with craft foam or any other material if you like.

What’s more, this method’s great for creating other irregularly shaped armor pieces, so experiment a little and you’ll discover for yourself just what you can do!

Happy crafting!

Archer Bow Tutorial

21 Aug , 2012,
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Singapore’s 2nd Annual Cosplay Chess is playing at International Cosplay Day Singapore this weekend, and one of the requests we had was for a bit of help with our Black Pawn – Archer’s bow.

After using our own “Reinforcement” and “Projection” magecraft to create the bow, we decided to put this tutorial together so anyone who feels like giving this a go might be able to do so fairly quickly.

This tutorial will take approximately 90 minutes to complete.

Stuff you’ll need:

1. A short length of PVC pipe of reasonable thickness.

2. Some shoe horns from Daiso

3. A square of PP (polypropylene) board

4. 6 binding screws

5. Two rolls of blue EVA foam

6. Some craft foam for detailing

7. Some black elastic thread

You’ll also need a soldering iron, scissors, contact glue, hot glue and other basic craft tools.

Step 1:

Measure and cut out a length of pvc pipe about a foot long. This piece of pipe will be used as the basis of your grip and handle for the bow.

You’re using the PVC pipe as a bridge for both shoe horns.

The thickness of the pipe should conform nicely to the fattest part of the shoe horn.

Step 2:

Draw out the base for two handles on PP board and cut it out. Don’t forget to mark out two spots (on either end of the handle) where you will be attaching the boards to your length of pipe with binding screws.

Draw out this shape (it kinda looks like a bag handle), and cut it out.
Be sure you make two (2) of these.

You’ll be sandwiching your PVC pipe with these later. Kinda like so.

Step 3:

Now that we have all the basic shapes out of the way, it’s time to start creating the entire structure.

First of all, use a pencil to mark out the various areas you’ll be soldering through for the binding screws.

You will need to mark out six (6) spots total. Two (2) on either side to bind the pipe and shoe horns together, and two (2) on the cross-section for the handle.

Step 4:

Punch holes through the places you marked on the pipe, the shoe horn, and the PP board with a soldering iron.

Push the heated soldering iron through all the way, and wiggle it about to expand the size of the hole if you have to.

Connect the pieces together first by using binding screws to join the shoe horns to your pipe, then the pp board handles you cut out. It’s a pretty easy and intuitive process.

Start assembling everything by securing the parts together with binding screws.

Sometimes, your binding screw might be a tad loose, so use hot glue to secure the wobbly bits in place.

Step 5:

Wrap the base structure with blue EVA foam pieces cut to shape, and create the details by layering on craft foam where necessary. Paste them on with contact glue.

Cut out individual pieces of blue EVA foam, and wrap them around the handles, pipe and other portions to create details.

We’re adding on more details, like this knuckle shield.

And here’s the end result, before priming and painting.

Step 6:

Once you’ve primed and painted the prop, snip off a length of black elastic thread, and tie it on to simulate the bow string.

You’re done! We even made a Hrunting to go with it. How cool is that? XD

And that’s it. How’s that for a little more than an hour’s work? XD

Steampunk Vocaloid Headphones

26 Jun , 2012,
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Awhile ago, we showed you how to build steampunk goggles on the cheap. Today, we’re going to take steampunk a step further by building a pair of headphones; not just any headphones, but a pair inspired by Vocaloid.

This tutorial will take approximately 60 minutes to complete.

Stuff you’ll need:

1. A pair of old headphones

2. Some mounting board or card stock

3. Sink stoppers

4. Gears (you can get some from model kits or old clocks)

5. Metal scraps

Of course, you’ll also need contact glue, some craft wire, white glue for priming, paint and lacquer for the finish.

Step 1:

Carefully strip away the wires and electronic components from your headphones until only the base structure is left.

What you want is a bare bones setup for you to modify, like so. XD

Step 2:

Next, using sink stoppers, create two ear pieces.

You’ll be surprised just how useful this innocuous bit of kitchenware can be.

First, apply some contact glue to the back of the sink stopper to get it ready for pasting.

Next, pass craft wire through the spokes in the sink stopper, and secure the sink stopper to the headphones base structure.

Craft wire’s great for securing the sink stopper to your base structure.

You’ll end up with something that looks kinda like this.

Step 3:

Using some pencil and paper, draw a cluster of gears onto mounting board or card stock. Next, cut out the shapes carefully with an X-Acto knife. You’ll end up with two sets (one for either ear).

These are essentially embellishments for your headphones, so be as creative as you like. Be sure to paint them a steampunk-y shade too! Bronze or chrome gold is usually a good choice.

Be careful! Those X-Acto’s are sharp!

In our case, we’re cre!ting steampunk ‘wings’ for our headphones. ^_^;;

Paint those wings a golden shade! ^_^

Step 4:

It’s time to put everything together.

First, stick on gears and metal bits to your headphones using contact glue. These lend detail to your headphones, andkgive it a more steampunk-y feel.

We used some metal scraps and gems we had lying around, but you can use anything, really! XD

Complete the look by pasting on the ‘wings’ (you’ll want to tuck these behind the sink stoppers), and decorating them with more gears.

steampunk headphones, vocaloid steampunk, steampunk vocaloid headphones, steampunk luka, megurine luka steampunk, steampunk vocaloids, steampunk, headphones, cosplay, vocaloid cosplay

And we’re done! Steampunk Vocaloid Headphones!

Vote for us in Singapore Blog Awards 2012!

If you liked this cosplay tutorial, and the many other guides and tutorials on our blog, please do vote for us in the Singapore Blog Awards!

We’re dedicated to creating more quality cosplay and pop-culture related content, and your continued support will go a long way towards helping us realize this.

You can do so simply by clicking on the Vote icon, or on this link now.

A Convention Kit Bag

20 Jun , 2012,
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Say you’re on location at a photo shoot, or you’re on the show floor, and suddenly there’s a costume malfunction.

A strap might break, a bit of armor snap off, or an enthusiastic fan might glomp you a little too hard and accidentally something.

We’ve experienced it all before, and that’s why it pays to pack a convention kit bag.

What’s a convention kit bag?

It’s a stash of tools for con emergencies,  and a great help when you need to jury rig your props and costumes at a con. With these tools at your disposal, you’ll also be able to craft on the go, so that’s kinda handy, right?

Just some of the tools you should be packing for a con. XD

Here’s what we usually have in ours:

1. Cutting Tools

We usually pack a pair of craft scissors and a craft knife. They’re useful for practically any situation, from cutting tape and string to bits of material you might use for patching up all that battle damage.

2. Adhesive Tape

Remember how MacGyver used to save the day with duct tape? Duct tape’s certainly saved ours on more than one occasion too. That’s why we keep a roll of it in our kit bag, together with a roll of double-sided tape and masking tape.

Tape’s great for on the spot repairs, especially if you need to secure two pieces of armor or broken straps together. You can use it on cloth too, just as long as you paste it on the inside!

3. Glue

We usually carry a tube of UHU POR and Magic Nails for fixing prop damage. The’re both foam safe, so they’re great for items you might have crafted out of compressed or expanding foam.

We also keep a bit of contact glue on hand for armor repairs.  Bits of blue foam coming lose due to wear and tear? That’s when contact glue comes in. It’s also a general purpose adhesive that bonds most prop and armor making materials.

You’ll want to keep liquid adhesives wrapped up and tightly sealed in a Ziploc bag though. You don’t want any spills, that’s for sure.

4. For clothies

Cloth costumes also see their fair share of wardrobe malfunctions too (though not always in that regard). That’s why we tend to carry an arsenal of useful items to take care of problems like ripped seams, tears, and other surprises that might pop up along the way.

The humble office stapler, for example, is excellent for fixing cloth costumes, especially if you’re in a hurry. We’ve used it to bridge rips and tears before, and it bears up to scrutiny pretty well from a distance. Just be careful about using it on fabric with loose fibers, as those don’t staple all that well.

You could also do the same with safety pins (we usually pack about a dozen), which are great for tacking down loose fabric, and keeping things like capes secure, and you definitely can’t ever go wrong with a spool of thread and a sewing needle.

We keep thread in several colors (typically white, black and skin tones) in our kit bag, in case we develop any holes or runs in our base suits too.

5. Rations

It’s funny if you think about it, but rations like an energy bar and bottled water aren’t exactly tools, right? But take it from us, we’ve discovered that even if your costume weathers the con well, fatigue and exhaustion can get to you if you’re on your feet all day, and that would mean you can’t give your all when you’re trying to portray that awesome character you’ve worked so hard for.

It’s especially true since cosplayers (us included) tend to stay awake for hours on end, doing last minute touch-ups and repairs (or just struggling to finish that costume) just before a con.

Getting a bite or two in, and some fluids in your system every now and then will definitely keep you on your feet, at least until the day’s done (just think of it as ‘repairing’ your body).

How ’bout you, cosplay friends?

Do you carry kit bags around to conventions too? What do you pack in them? We’d love to hear how that figures.

See you at the con! Cheerio!

Vote for us in Singapore Blog Awards 2012!

If you liked this cosplay tutorial, and the many other guides and tutorials on our blog, please do vote for us in the Singapore Blog Awards!

We’re dedicated to creating more quality cosplay and pop-culture related content, and your continued support will go a long way towards helping us realize this.

You can do so simply by clicking on the Vote icon, or on this link now.

Crafting a Gauntlet: Part II

17 Jun , 2012,
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In our previous entry, we showed you how to create a simple gauntlet base out of blue foam and a cheap pair of gloves.

Today, we’ll complete the project by building a simple bracer and armor plates to affect the Saber look.

This tutorial will take approximately 45 minutes to complete.

Stuff you’ll need:

1. Some blue foam

2. A concealed jacket zipper (you can get this from most tailoring supply stores)

3. Contact glue

4. Paper fasteners

Of course, you’ll also need some white glue for priming, paint and lacquer for the finish.

Step 1:

Cut out a trapezium shaped piece of foam. Because Saber’s gauntlet is flared at the top, make sure that one side is wider than the other.

Cut along the scour lines to create a trapezium.

We used the following measurements – height: 9″ tall, base: 8″ wide, flare: 12″ wide, but you should scale it to the size of your forearm.

Step 2:

Now, affix either side of the concealed jacket zipper to the slanted edges of the trapezium using contact glue. Once it has dried, join both zipper halves together and zip it up. You’ll end up with a flared tube.

Now, trim the tube down to shape, and add on the necessary detailing by cutting out two thin strips of foam and pasting it on with contact glue.

You’ll end up with something like this.

And this is how it looks like when it’s worn. ^_^

 Step 3:

Now that we’ve got both the gauntlet base and bracer done, we’re going to work on the armor plates.

Cut out four pieces of blue foam. They should be trapezium shaped, but the slant of the sides should be less pronounced than when you were making the bracer.

Make sure they’re about the same size too.

Using contact glue, paste the armor plates together, overlapping them slightly at the edges.

Next, drive paper fasteners through the foam to create the ‘rivets’. Make sure you secure the paper fasteners in place!

Paper fasteners are great for detailing! ^_^

It should look like something this on the inside.

 Step 4:

Affix the row of overlapping armor plates onto the bracer using contact glue, and hold it in place till it sets.

Next, put on the gauntlet base and bracer, and paste the extruding armor plate onto the back of your palm.

You’re almost done!

Here’s a look at it from another angle. XD

And that’s it for Saber’s gauntlet. All that’s left to do is to prime it with white glue, spray on a nice coat of metallic silver and lacquer, and you’re done.

Of course, we didn’t just settle for Saber’s gauntlet.

We decided we could afford to give it some extra details and a midnight purple paint job so it’d suit Saber Alter (Crimson’s favorite Saber) better! XD

We <3 Saber Alter! ^^;;

Wearing the gauntlet:

If you haven’t worn armor before, you might find putting on the gauntlet a little confusing.

It’s actually really easy though, and all you need to do is to pull on the glove, wrap the curves of the bracer around your forearm, and pull up the zip!

You can also do this in reverse order to quickly and easily remove the gauntlet.

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